INTRODUCTION TO LOCAL GRAPE GROWING

The pioneering vines of the New Zealand was planted in 1819, in Kerikeri, North Island. In the following century the wineries’ efforts had almost not given resulted. In the 60’s, however, it started to blossom, with support from government and the arrival of international companies.

With the increase of the investments and extra enthusiasm the business began to grow. The New Zealander wine industry was then based in the warmest regions, to the north, where the ripeness was guaranteed: Auckland, in the coast west of the island of the north, and Hawke's Bay, the east, were the places for the base.

During the 70’s, the challenge was to find out what the South Island was able to produce. In the coldest parts of the country Sauvignon Blanc was tested, and also Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. The first vines of Sauvignon Blanc started in Marlborough, in 1973, by the Montana Winery - the biggest producer in the country, and by 1980 it was a reveled to the world, becoming an icon of the country.

Other regions in the South Island opened their doors to the vitiviniculture, including Nelson, Otago, Central and Canterbury.

In 1990 return, the coutnry had 5000ha almost cultivated. It was the start of an expansion that did not finish yet.

The country is an important member of the international Market of wines, with of 480* wineries. The most important variety is Sauvignon Blanc with total 39%* of the total area of vineyards, and the second one is the Pinot Noir (18%*).

The success of its wines, with freshness and full of flavor, has just started, however the producers look for new discoveries, the future of others varieties is sufficiently promising, amongst them Pinot Noir and also Pinot Grigio.

Obs.: * Data from the site http://www.winesofnz.com/Info.aspx regarding the 2006

FIRST CONTACT

My first contact with local wine was in a store in Central Auckland – I was trying to make the most of my “wine time” while in the “City of Sails” – as Auckland is called. I got a discount voucher from a free guide book and went to check what the store has to offer. The place (NZ Wine Makers Centre) is a little pricy for my budged - but everything in NZ seem to be anyway. The most enjoyable thing was to meet the manager, who had done a trip very similar to mine: he went to South America to explore the wine regions - It was great to talk to someone who shares similar approach to do things - He gave some information about the neighbourhood of Auckland, which was a great motivation to start my mission…

However, I started my expedition a little eastern than I thought, while on a trip through Coromandel Bay. It was last week, when a heavy and constant rain made our guide to change the plans in our tour so; he suggested a visit to a winery instead of being outdoors.

It was a pity to not be able to full appreciate the beautiful and unspoiled east coast; however the idea of visiting a winery sounded good to me.

PURANGI ESTATE

The Purangi winery is located in the Mercury Bay, in a beautiful landscape. The friendly owner, Robert Evans, explained that the grapes used for its wines do not come from the area which does not have the right condition to grow grapes, gave explanation to all we asked and made comments about the difficulties of small wine business and a lack of policy for its production.

The establishment produces wine and fruit liquor. After trying the “grape wine”, I picked up the Kiwi and Feijoa “wines”, which were the best of the estate production.

WAIHEKE ISLAND

The beautiful island is 40 minutes away from Auckland by ferry, and it is a popular destination for Aucklanders.

It has built a reputation for fine red wine and since the early 1980’s experienced vintners have been producing world acclaimed wines, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends. Many of these wines have won major awards and can only be found on Waiheke or the some the finest restaurants around the world.

The island has a warm, dry climate similar to Bordeaux and it is visible and “drinkable” the similarity of styles between the two regions, both influenced by the maritime climate.

With an influential magazine in hands (Cuisine – wine country), which a bought recently, I planed my route in the island. First considered the wineries opened to public – for obvious reasons, and then the ones easily reached by bus or foot – for more evident cause, and then picked some different styles.

As soon as I get to the inland I got myself an “Waiheke Island of Wine Map”, which I combined with a “Walker’s Guide”, and decided to go first in the furthest winery that my bus pass could take me.

STONYRIDGE VINEYARD

 I couldn’t be a better start, I felt among friends there. All the staff was nice and really friendly, for who seem to be a pleasure to work in there. I had the chance to have informal chats with the vineyard manager and also with the owner, Stephen White – who seems to manage his business very closely with attention and simplicity that made me admire even more the establishment.

The place is very diversified; it produces fine wines and an award-winning olive oil; also has a charming restaurant e café – over viewing the vineyard, and occasionally organizes parties on its premises.

The visitors are welcomed with a glass of its Church Bay, Chardonnay 2006 – in the right temperature it should be, and then are invited to follow the guide trough the propriety, where we could learn a little about its techniques, appreciate the scenery and even see and touch a Cork Tree!

At its cellar we tasted the second-tier Bordeaux style blend Airfield 2004, which could compete with some others flagship wines for sure, for such smooth and fine wine it is.

After we finished the tour I treated myself with a glass of the Stonyridge Pilgrim, 2005, which is a Rhone style blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mouvedre.

The propriety makes wonderful wines, all organic, which are more expensive than New Zealander wines usually. So, I was glad to have the opportunity to taste them where their lovely grapes grow.

GOLDWATER

Founded in 1978, Goldwater Estate pioneered winemaking on the island. Its flagship wines – Esslin Merlot, the red Bordeaux blend style Goldie and Zell Chardonnay – are made from estate grown Waiheke grapes, but since the early 1990s have been complemented by classy wines sourced from vineyards in Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay. The winery also has a second-tier range, Boatshed Bay.

Almost all of its wines has wood, apart from the Sauvignon Blanc that is made in the well know Marlborough fresh and fruity trend. The Chardonnay has oak, but shows different character of spiciness that I did not found in the Californian sample.

They have an eye for the foreign market and have been successfully exporting to manly to United Kingdom and Japan.

At the time that I visit a very much well liked annual event: a 10-course meal that takes up most of the afternoon. As I wasn’t that hungry I preferred admiring the view from the top of the hill, where a native tree called Pohutukawa is set and gives inspirations to nature lovers. The sight overlooking picturesque Putiki Bay is stunning.

CABLE BAY VINEYARDS

Once more, after a short bus ride and a little walk, I was again among the grapes, at this time at the very new facilities of Cable Bay.

The new building with a restaurant; bar; tasting room and private rooms specifically built for meetings, retreats and special functions; was completed early this year.

The view does not disappoint and, you can have your glass of wine overlooking the Church Bay.

With a little charge you can taste 7 different wines, which came from the propriety in Waiheke and also Marlborough.

They have a wide range with many varieties included in the list. All of its wines have oak, included the Sauvignon Blanc – hidden the so loved fruity and fresh usual character.

The Pinot Noir 2005 was lovely, however their best I could not try: the “Reserve Wine” which is made from the best grapes of the best years are not available in the tasting – such shame.

I ended my tour in the magic island, doing what everyone loves doing in New Zealand – included the locals: tramping! It is what others call trekking, but you can just tramp the way kiwis do, over here!

AUCKLAND WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL

A good way to find out about local production and producers is going to a fair. Well, as Auckland is the biggest city in the country, their way to do it is a festival.

There I was, in a fairly good day of a mild Saturday, ready to try the local goods.

After paying the entry you get into a really fair-feeling festival, where everyone tries to eat as much as they can – making the most of the charge – and drink as much as they need to get merry – considering that beverages are charged separately.

Important wine producers were represented and I have tried a couple of their wines, making sure to try something new. I had a good surprise on this: I tasted a Viognier 2005 from Te Mata Estate, which was pioneered in New Zealand from by Te Mata and was lovely. I was glad to had picked up something out of ordinary.

The festival is popular among locals and has a full entertaining program, with music shows and also talks.

The talk, which I was in – to listen obviously, was of a French sommelier, who emigrated to New Zealand and talked about matching food and wine, manly kiwi ones - even French are recognizing the goodness!

BEWICTHED

Waiheke Island is known for being magic, would that bewitched me? The truth is that I liked it so much - as much as its wines – which I decided going back on Sunday.

Once again I was there to explore the area. I started with a winery which unfortunately was closed for visits, but it was not bad luck!

I arrived at Saratoga Estate when they were with hands on work, literally. However they spared some time to talk, after my self-guided tour through the vineyard, where I could see that most of the grapes haven’t been harvested.

The team was of two guys, one Kiwi and other French (one more!! Is it a French invasion?) and I took advantage of their openness to ask few questions about the work. One of them was related to the grapes that are on the vine and some started to shrink already. They explained that was on purpose to compensate the sugar which has been lost with the heavy rain in the past days, but the harvest was planned for the next following days.

Great, lesson learned I made my way through the fields and ended up in the next door propriety.

TE MOTU VINEYARD

Just 500 metres separate Saratoga from Te Motu, but the approach to business has a big gap of differences.

One of the owners was who showed me the wine samples offered and when I started asking regular questions about the business, he pointed out their wine in a book of the “Confrontation Grands Bordeaux 1996 et Assemblage Bordelais (vins etrangers)” where their Te Motu 1999 wine got a score of 16,5/19 – as it was all that I should know about their wine.

Not feeling very motivated, I choose to try a Dunleavy 2002, a bled of Cabernet and Merlot, made with hand-picked grapes from the vineyard, which has tight control on the yield. The wine was good and still developing. It could be nice to taste it again in a couple of years.

Admiring their wine but not their service, I left the place to have a snack in the city centre.

I fulfil the rest of my afternoon in the island with some tourism – hey, I am a human being! And had it completed with my last visit to a winery – for now!

MUDBRICK VINEYARD

I didn’t get to the vineyard in the best time: it was almost time to close the tasting room. So, I could not get as much attention from the taste-guide and got all the white wines in room temperature (I mean kept in room temperature since early morning, probably), which took away some sparkling of the visit.

Nevertheless, it was still a good experience. The guide was very knowledgeable and knew what she was offering – it makes a big difference.

You pay NZ$5 and try 8 wines!! – very good deal. It is interesting as well for the vertical taste where you have the chance to compare 3 different years of the same wine (2003, 2004 and 2005 of the Bordeaux traditional blend style).

To try their Reserve Syrah 2005 was a delight. I, who am not a huge fan o the variety, loved it. It is earthy and full of black fruits that play in your mouth for long time.

To end my day at the island I took my time to contemplate the view from the local, which is, by far, the best I have ever seen in the island. What means a lot, considering I do believe it has some magic in it.

Cheers,

Marcia Amaral